Absinthe is definitely an ingredient that I’m used to using in small quantities. A rinse, a mist, a dash; these are absinthe measurements I’m quite comfortable with. That hint of herbaceous anise can make or break a cocktail recipe. It’s when I see a drink with more than a dash that I get a little nervous. I don’t love the flavor of anise in itself, and given a choice, I’d probably opt for something else.
However, the Trinidad Sour long ago convinced me that every cocktail ingredient can occasionally play the starring role, and if Angostura bitters can nail the gig then absinthe definitely can. After all, absinthe is a spirit that is frequently consumed on its own, or especially with water and sugar. I’ve never personally cared for that preparation, but I adore the ritual of it. I was ready to be convinced.
And this is the cocktail that did it – the Brunelle. I spotted the recipe in a piece Al Culliton did for Punch, entitled Bring Back the Brunelle. It’s part of a series of “Bring Back the…” articles they’ve done for the site on lesser-known classic cocktails, and as a cocktail history nerd, I love them. The implication that the Brunelle was a forgotten classic languishing in obscurity certainly made me more inclined to give it a try. And Laura Maddox’s strikingly refreshing-looking frappé preparation over crushed ice sealed the deal.
The Brunelle is a simple absinthe sour made with nothing else but lemon and simple syrup. When shaken and served over crushed ice with a sprig of fresh mint, it’s like a spectacularly refreshing absinthe lemonade – crisply cold, mouthwateringly tart, and beautifully aromatic. It’s also a low-ABV drink, which is good, because it’s far too crushable. Which is not something I ever thought I’d say about an absinthe-based cocktail!
History of the Brunelle Cocktail
The Brunelle comes from the 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book. The recipe calls for a 1:3 ratio of absinthe to lemon juice (the Savoy’s measurements are a bit odd, but this was probably about ½ oz. absinthe to 1.5 oz. lemon) and ½ tbsp. sugar. This mix was shaken and strained into a cocktail glass.
According to Culliton’s article, Maddox and her staff at Small Victory in Austin, Texas were flipping through the Savoy Cocktail Book when they noticed the Brunelle. They tried it, loved it, and added it to their menu with a few modifications: they adjusted the recipe to 2 parts lemon to 1 part each absinthe and simple syrup, and they served the drink as a frappé – a classic cocktail preparation that’s served over crushed or shaved ice. Culliton points out that the extra dilution helps bring out the flavors of the absinthe.
Brunelle
3/4 oz. absinthe (Small Victory uses Tempus Fugit; I used Absente)
3/4 oz. simple syrup
1.5 oz. lemon juice
Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake until chilled. Strain into a double old fashioned glass filled with crushed ice. Top with more ice and a sprig of fresh mint.
Recipe from Punch.